checked 4th and 5th and 5th and 3rd,both circuits were open.cut off thermister on frozen coils and read 13.56 to 19.80.why were these circuits open,wrong wires for my model,thanks mike

model number ge-pss23sgna bs

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These are the correct wires for this model because you have the same board. The only thing I can think of is you are not getting the leads of the meter all the way to the wire for correct testing. If that isn’t the problem then you have a loose connection between the board and the thermistor, which will be a worse case scenario.

You more than likely have a bad defrost heater, check it and if it is open replace it. If it is not he heater then it can be the thermostat but typically if it is not the heater it will be the thermistor. In any case test the thermostat and if it is open replace it and if not go ahead and replace the thermistor. The main board is the last resort.

GE Refrigerator Not Cooling

How To Test A Thermistor On A GE Refrigerator

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Comments for thermister

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Sep 17, 2012
GE fridge freeze/thaw problem
by: Moe

Hi Shawn;

First of all thank you so much for the excellent information’s and videos that you provide. I have a GE sidebyside fridge (model# GSL22JFPC BS) with the following problem:

Freezer seems to go through freeze thaw cycle periodically, signs are: ice cubes are stuck to each other and even few times I open the fridge at a thaw time and I could see water dripping from all over the freezer. Based on my observations the issue appears to be as a result of evap fan working all the time, so when the compressor is on everything is normal and cold air circulates but the problem occurs when compressor is off, then fan starts to blow warm air into the freezer and even worst is (I think) when defrost heater is on which turns the warm air into hot air and thaw process accelerates.
I have done your thermister and fan motor test and everything seems fine. Things I have replaced (before I found your website) are evap thermister and main board but problem is still there. BTW one of the two resistors that you mentioned in the fan motor video was burnt on the old main board.

Can you help me to diagnose the problem please?

Sep 17, 2012
by: Shawn/admin

If the resistor was burned then the fan is bad and the fan may have damaged your new board. Since the old board had the burned resistor and the fan wasn’t changed then my best advice is to replace the fan and replace the board again.

Also pull the back cover out the back of the freezer. Then look up at the housing that the cover was screwed to. Look behind where the screws screwed into if there is a piece of foam rubber. If so remove it because sometimes the thermistor can read moisture from this foam causing the defrost cycle to stay on too long. Note that this foam is only on some models and I am only talking about the foam directly behind where the cover screwed to (putting the foam directly across from the thermistor).

I hope this helps!

Sep 21, 2012
GE fridge freeze/thaw problem
by: Moe

Hi again,
I checked for the rubber foam and I couldn’t find any foam exactly where the screws screwed into, however there were two fairly big pieces of foam firmly attached to either side of the freeze coil and they seem to hold the coil. I didn’t those were ones you were talking about so I didn’t touch those. But I did replace the evap fan and replaced the main board again but unfortunately the problem is still there; evap fan runs almost all the time which I think causes the freezer to go through freeze / thaw process periodically. What else do you think could cause this?


Sep 23, 2012
by: Shawn/admin


Yours must not have the foam.

With the refrigerator running (both fans on) take the evaporator cover off and look at the coils. Describe what you see. Is there a thin layer of frost along the coils? Is there a ball of ice on the coils? Is there heavy frost on the coils? Is there heavy frost at the top but none on the bottom?

What you should see is a light coat of frost all the way from top to bottom of the coils. (Assuming the refrigerator has been running for a while). If this is what you see there are a few more possible problems. The compressor could be overheating. If you had problems with the burned resistor on one of your boards then the fan next to the compressor may not be running. If not replace the fan. If the fan is running, check to see if the coils under the bottom are dirty. It takes a lot of dust to cause this but clean it just in case.

If you don’t find anything else you may want to try changing all thermisors even though they passed the test.

Thank you,

Sep 29, 2012
GE fridge freeze/thaw problem
by: Moe

I waited for few days to make sure that the problem is fixed and after the fifth day of freezer’s normal operation I am almost certain that fortunately my head scratching period is over. Interestingly enough, the problem turns out to be the damn fresh food door that had dropped on its hinge. So as you mention in your GE repair guide the door failed to switch off the door sensor when the door was closed. Compressor (along with everything else including evap fan) worked none stop until the compressor over heated and was shut down. But everything else including evap fan continued working and that’s when evap fan was blowing warm air. I didn’t catch this earlier because the light bulb in my fridge was burnt and I just replaced it few days ago and then I noticed food close to the bulb were too hot. And I read your article after the fact of course! But seriously why GE doesn’t make fresh food door like the freezer door non-adjustable?

Any how, 250 bucks later the problem was solved with a little piece of cardboard which I put on the top part of the fridge door so now the switch is pushed all the way in and the fridge operates normally. This, of course, is my temporary solution as I wasn’t sure that was going to work.

Regardless, I would like to thank you again for your awesome blog and service.


Sep 30, 2012
by: Shawn/admin

I have overlooked this problem once or twice so don’t feel bad. Now all you have to do is adjust the door back up. There is a bolt at the bottom of the door that adjusts the door back up. Before you turn it back up put a little lock-tight on the threads so maybe it won’t come down again.

Thank you,

Aug 06, 2014
by: tberq

the freezer is at minus 32 and the fridge is at plus 54. the cold controls located in the top of fridge are push pad type and are set at 5 for freezer (out of 9, 9 being the warmest) and 37 for fridge.
at first, the evap panel was deeply frosted. i removed the back panel and found the evap coil iced over. i replaced the evap thermistor, which has taken care of the defrost problem.(defrost heater and t-stat read continuity at mother board)but this did not change the readings at the cold control in the fridge.
next i replaced the two fridge thermistors. again no change. after that i replaced the mother board. again no change.
now i have replaced the cold control board and have readings of 65 for both fridge and freezer. (unplugged for a few hours while checking coil for icing. it was lightly frosted only).
so now i am wondering what controls the damper for the air flow to the fridge? when i open fridge door and put my hand near the air louvers at the top i feel only a slight breeze, but if i open the freezer drawer there is plenty of cold air volume. am i missing something here?
i can understand no air flow if evap coil is iced over, but why if it is not. i even removed the damper tower to see if there was an obstruction to the damper (there was not) and could look down into the freezer compartment and observed the fan spinning.

Aug 07, 2014
Clogged with ice
by: shawn

Check to see if the air duck is clogged with ice. Take the airflow tower out the back of the refrigerator and check for ice.

The main board controls the damper. It will open and close the damper according to the thermistor readings and it will close the damper if the door is open so make sure the door switch is working. (light turns on and off).

Jul 30, 2015
Differentiate Evaporator thermistors
by: Jose Lora

Hi Shawn,

I have a GE PSC25PSTA-SS Refrigerator. I am confused on evaporator thermistors. As you mention on the video "How to test a thermistor on GE Refrigerator"
on J1 plug we can check three (4) thermistors. First, Pin 4 for evaporator. One for freezer, pin 3, and two for fresh food, pins 1 and 2.
My questions are:
Is there a thermistor for the fresh food evaporator and also another for the freezer evaporator?
If so, Could you identify the pin numbers for each one?

Thanks and regards,

Jul 31, 2015
Fresh food evaporator thermistor
by: shawn

This thermistor is best tested using the a bench test. Mostly because it will be hard to determine what the ohm reading of this thermistor should be. However it is a pretty good job accessing this thermistor so if I suspected it was bad I would just replace it. I think it will be embedded in a block make sure you get your new one back into that block correctly.

For the most part that thermistor controls the defrost cycle on the fresh food evaporator. If the defrost cycle is not working there will be heavy frost on the evaporator cover. To see this you may have to remove all the custom cool components at the bottom of the refrigerator.

There is also another thermistor in the fresh food section that is for monitoring the temp. in the fresh food section and that one should be the same as the one on the video or my thermisor page.

This page may help

Aug 29, 2015
thermisters not quite 15.6K ohms
by: Anonymous

GE ETS22XBMBRWW J1 is slightly different. Checked Refrig and freezer thermister. Only achieved 12.5 K ohms Freezer, 13.8K ohms fridge. Couldn't find a third thermistor. This started when fridge/freezer stopped cooling, no ice on coils. All fans running, compressor not, no clicking, replaced relay and overload on side of compressor. Checked resistance on 3 pins on compressor, all in spec. Not getting 120VAC to compressor leads. Where do I go from here?

Aug 31, 2015
Main board
by: shawn

Look at the back of the board to see if there are any burnt solder joints. If so your board is bad and needs replacing. That is the first thing I would look at.

If the ohm readings you are mention are when the thermistor is in ice water they are off a little and should be replaced however they may not be your main issue if the compressor will not run at all. With the readings off a little it should still run even if it don't run long enough.

Oct 02, 2015
ClimateKeeper Fresh Food Thermistor Pin #?
by: Dual Evap Defrost Fixer

On a GE ClimateKeeper like Model # PHS25SGSC with main board #WR49x10152 what pins / plugs do the Fresh Food Thermistors connect too for:
1. Evaporator Thermistor?
2. Fresh Food Compartment Thermistor?
3. Custom Cool Drawer?
The guides I have seen says Fresh Food Thermistors are on P1 & P2 of J1 with common on P5 but that only accounts for 2 of the 3 and don't know which pin is for which thermistor.
I have a defrost problem and would like to do a rough test of the Fresh Food Evaporator thermistor so I don't have to risk messing up the evaporator tubing bending it in and out to test/replace that thermistor.

Oct 02, 2015

by: shawn

If your fan is working you can be almost sure the thermistor is bad. Replace it and that should take care of your problem. I am with you on not wanting to move the evaporator but it should handle it. Just be gentle.

Nov 16, 2015
GE WR55X10942
by: Alen Marshall, Mobile, Al

I have a 1997 Profile 25 ft. side by side. That has done well over the years. I pull it out and clean the coils twice a year. But now the compressor runs constantly. will not turn off even when setting temp is at highest temp. Outside/lower fan works, door switches turn off lights. No clicking or strange noises, it just keeps running as normal. Pulled the cover off the inside coil in the freezer and is solid ice top to bottom. Have not done any trouble shooting. I have it in the garage to work on it. Bought a new one. I was going to inspect the control board and see if the motor control relay was sticking. I have a background in electronics, Teaching it in the Air Force in 1967 for 4 years. Forty years later, retired but still have my test equipment. So if you need me check anything on the board at the component level. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Allen M

Nov 16, 2015

by: shawn

I wouldn't think it had a control board if it was made in 97 so give me a model number and we will know for sure.

The ice from top to bottom is the reason it is running all the time. My guess is the defrost heater is bad. If you get all the ice out you can check ohms across the heater and if it is open (or very high ohms) replace the heater.

This page will help

Refrigerator Defrost

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