[?] Subscribe To This Site

XML RSS
Add to Google
Add to My Yahoo!
Add to My MSN
Subscribe with Bloglines

Home
Refrigerator Repair
GE Refrigerator Repair


Washer Repair
Whirlpool Washer Repair
GE Washer Repair


Dryer Repair
Dishwasher Repair
Range Repair
Hot Water Heater
Product Reviews


Appliance Repair Blog
Disclaimer

GE Hydrwave washer was making loud jet-like sound during spin, now won't spin at all

by Patrick
(Houston, TX)




Hi. I have a GE model WHDSR316GOWW Hydrowave washer. About 9 months ago, the washer would all of a sudden make a loud jet-like spinning noise when in the spin cycle. Well, since the washer would still work, we figured, oh well, and just learned to live with it, since it only happened during the spin cycle. Fast forward to two weeks ago. The washer now does not spin or agitate at all. I've also tried spinning the agitator by hand, but it won't spin (could of sworn it used to!). I've tried the motor reset (unplugging and lifting the lid, etc..) but to no avail. There is no blinking light on the motor at all. I've put the washer through a light wash cycle to see if it worked after trying the motor reset, and it seems to go through the cycle fine, except for the spinning/ agitation part (the pump works fine, and you can hear a faint sound coming from the inside, which it has always made since I purchased it brand new). I've also checked the fuse and am getting continuity across it. Would the pump work if the fuse was bad? Because it does work. The only other thing I can think of maybe worth mentioning is that there has been a couple of times through the 3+ year life span of the washer, that it would vibrate badly just before fully powering up in spin mode. And I mean "the whole washer moves if you don't open the lid to stop it" kind of vibration. We figured it was because of an unbalanced load, but it seems these particular models are more sensitive to this than others? After redistributing the load, it would then be OK. I'm not sure if these problems are related, but the more I think about it, the more I believe they are. Help!





Find your part:




Answer

Hi Patrick,

If the fuse were blown the pump would still run.

Have you looked at the pictures/video on this page to be sure you are looking for the blinking light in the right place HydroWave Washer Repair


Just to rule out a locked shaft and tube assembly try turning the large pulley under the washer that the belt connects to. If that pulley will not turn I believe you have a bad shaft and tube (drive system/transmission).

If the shaft and tube isn’t locked and the light isn’t blinking then I believe you have a bad motor.


Thank you,
Shawn/administrator




Comments for
GE Hydrwave washer was making loud jet-like sound during spin, now won't spin at all

Click here to add your own comments

Apr 06, 2011
Double checked and...
by: Patrick

Well, I double checked, and I see no blinking light on the motor. Also, the pulley at the bottom does not turn. Could both the motor and shaft be bad? I hope not!

Apr 06, 2011
RE
by: Shawn/Admin

Take the belt off and see if the motor will run without a load. Let us know what you find and we will go from there.

Also if you decide to replace the shaft and tube (make sure the motor is of first) this page will help

GE Washer Disassembly

Apr 10, 2011
Still won't run
by: Patrick

I disconnected the belt to see if the motor ran. Put it in drain and spin mode and the motor still would not turn under power. The large pulley would not turn as well when I try to spin it by hand. Well, it spins about a less than 1/5 turn and then locks in either direction. On a side note, I triple checked both the fuse and the washer lid for continuity using the instructions on your site, and I do get continuity for both.

Apr 10, 2011
RE
by: Shawn/Admin

Since the large pulley will not turn you can safely say that he shaft and tube assembly is bad. However with the belt off the motor should run and since it is not then you more than likely have a bad motor as well. I normally don’t say this but with two very expensive parts bad you are better off putting your money in a new washer.

Jun 18, 2011
Motor and Shifter
by: Jaba

Washer will neither agitate nor spin. Motor has 4 blink code indicating shifter. I tested door lid and fuse and both tested ok. I tested shifter and circuit is closed. Mechanism spins fine.

So it looks like motor is bad. But isn't likely that shifter is bad too because machine was making horrible racket before it stopped working suggesting to me that shifter went out and that is what damaged the motor. Otherwise why would there be a four blink code?

Motor will not code reset.

Concerned that replacing motor alone will not fix problem and that if motor and shifter are bad new machine is better investment.

Disappointed to see all the cheap communist made components in my GE machine. My parents have had the same washer for the last 25 years. This GE washer of mine lasted just long enough for the warranty to expire, about 16 months.

Jun 19, 2011
RE
by: Shawn/admin

What kind of ohm reading did you get on the sifter? For the most part if it is closed it is ok but in rare cases it could short and possibly cause the motor to fail. It should be approximately 90 ohms at room temperature. Note that you have to unplug the sifter to get an accurate reading.

I haven’t seen a sifter cause a motor to fail but like I said if it were shorted it may. At one time there was a problem with bad motors causing the sifters to fail which would cause to coil to open electrically and that isn’t the case.

Jan 12, 2012
WHDSR316G2WW
by: Ali

No spin no agitate...motor code blinks continuously 1 sec on and 1 sec off....whether in off or in any cycle. The magnetic lid switch seems ok....Can you advise? Machine was purchased from HD March of 2009....

Jan 12, 2012
RE
by: Shawn/admin

Did you check the lid switch with an ohmmeter? The reason I ask is because I have known people to say the lid switch seems of because they can hear it click. This doesn’t mean the switch is ok.

The motor is blinking normal (no fault codes) meaning there is a good chance the motor isn’t your problem. However, the motor can still be the problem. The problem is most likely the control. There are test you can run to possibly confirm this but I will need the model number to assist. You will need a meter to perform this test. If you don’t have one then my best guess is the control assuming the lid switch is good.

Click here to add your own comments








All parts purchased through Appliance-repair-it.com have a 365 day return policy!!


Need a part?
Start Here

Please enter part or model number:


Help Finding Model Number


Your Host
Appliance Repair Expert
Shawn

Appliance repair since 1996
2-years refrigeration courses
1-year electric theory courses
1-year residential wiring course


Appliance Accessories And Products I Recommend

The most commonly used diagnostic tool is the ohmmeter check out this page.

How To Use An Ohmmeter

Appliance-repair-it.com is a free service but it cost to keep it up and running. Donate to let this website help you next time!

AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc.