Washer Not Agitating Correctly & LED Flashing 4 Times
(Tampa, Florida, USA)
Thanks for your response regarding the tub seal needing to be replaced on my WJRR4170G0WW washer.
I called the company that replaced the mode shifter and they came out and found the tub seal they had put in a few days earlier was not seated correctly.
They put on another new tub seal and more red silicone sealant, along with instructions not to use for 24 hours so sealant could set up.
Once I started to use it, the washer began to agitate again with the tub spinning and the agitator following along. I did the reset and it started to agitate correctly, but but with the LED flashing 4 times. I reset again and then it flashed correctly and agitated correctly for 20 or so loads.
I had been washing the last few loads on cool/cold temp. and decided to do a load on cold/cold, but the water would not flow. All the other temps worked and the cold worked on the rinse just not cold wash. We took the switch panel off and checked the wires thinking one had gotten loose from the mode shifter and tub seal repairs. All wires seemed to be in place. After a while it just started to run cold water as it should and all other temps seemed to work also. We started a load AND then it started to agitate again as if the mode shifter was bad and also flashing 4 times. I reset several times, but it didn't change anything. So we replaced the motor/invertor asm, but it still agitates with the tub spinning around fast and the agitator following along and 4 flashes. The reset's seem more and more difficult to accomplish as if it doesn't want to reset.
So, what could it be?
It has a brand new mode shifter and a brand new motor asm, but continues to agitate with the tub spinning hard and fast with the LED flashing 4 times indicating mode shifter.
I apologize for the length of this, but felt it would help to know everything that has happened.Answer
First off I would like to point
out for anyone else who may read this. There is no need to put any kind of sealant, silicone or glue on the tub seal. If the seal is seated properly it shouldn’t leak. On rare instances the a bad tub will make it appear that the tub seal is leaking and a new tub seal will leak as well.
First thing you need to do is to make sure the new sifter coil isn’t faulty. Test for continuity between the wires that go from the motor to the coil. If there is no continuity between the two wires the new coil is faulty. Make sure the test is done with the wires unplugged from the motor.
Also make sure the wire is pluged into the motor good.
If the new coil weren’t faulty I would think it you have to be the inverter/motor because if the tub is spinning back and forth the control is doing its job. I realize you have already replaced both parts but I have racked my brain, gone back and read the manual but still can’t come up with anything other than what you have already replaced.
I think you need to get back with the service guys that started the repair and see if they can get you back going. If one of the parts that they installed is already bad they need to make GE replace it and it shouldn’t cost you. If the service company you got isn’t a GE dealer they may not be able to get GE to pay them for the part or the extra repairs but don’t let them fool you GE parts are guaranteed. So if it is one of the parts that has already been replaced you should be taken care of. I am a service tech myself and would hate to be in their shoes but at this point I would just bite the bullet and get you back going at whatever cost. But of course I cannot speak for them.
I hope this helps!
I am sorry you are having so much trouble and I hope you get it back going.