GE Profile washer won't agitate or spin

by Jim
(Glendale AZ USA)

We have a GE Profile model WPRE6150H1WT, 2+ years old, that doesn't agitate or spin. Found and replaced blown fusible link in wiring harness. No flashing LED on original Inverter/Motor. Replaced Inv/motor with new and have normal standby flashing LED (1 sec on & 1 sec off). Lid switches (one to control board & one to the motor) check out OK with ohm meter. Timer/controller works in field service mode turns on the valves and pump, but doesn't run the motor. Mode shifter has continuity around 80 ohms. After buying a new motor, I hate to buy a new controller if I don't know that it has failed. What could be wrong? What should I check next? Thanks.

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Hi Jim,

Put the washer into high-speed spin mode (in the service mode or not). There should be a red plug on the far right of the motor. With the washer in spin there should be 12 VDC between pins 5 (pin farthest right it should be purple) to pin 3 (third from left blue) and 12 VDC from pins 5 to pin 4 (forth from left black). If the voltages are good and the motor will not run the motor is bad. If you are not getting the correct voltage replace the control.

Before you check this make sure the lid switch isn’t the problem. I don’t know how you checked it before but this page shows how to test the lid switch. GE HydroWave Washer Repair

Since the light is flashing you know the new fuse isn’t blown so there is no need to check that. However depending on when the new motor was made it may have had instructions telling you to remove the fuse and just straight wire it. If this is the case do so but leave it in place if the instructions do not specify. In case you threw away the instructions…if the new motor has a red blinking light remove the fuse.

Thank you,

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Motor is working now
by: Jim

Shawn - Thanks for the voltage values, that was what I need for further troubleshooting. Didn't actually need them because the problem cleared when I retested the repair. We did a wire by wire check of the control cable with no shorts or opens indicated. Retried the old inverter/motor which subsequently blew the new fusible link. Clearly the old motor was the cause of the original failure. Replaced the fusible link with the jumper wire from the motor kit and reconnected the new inv/motor. Put the washer in field service mode and the motor spun in all modes. **SUCESS** We did discover that in FS mode, for the spin test, the controller runs through agitate low then high and finally spin over about 4 minutes time so I suspect that the voltage from the controller are changing in a similar way. The washer is back together and running a test load now. The machine is back in service. Thanks for your help. What a great website.

Great Job!!
by: Shawn

I am glad to hear you got it back going!!

Thank you,

Wiring loom connector fatigue
by: Ben

After reading your article on checking for 12VDC across the purple and blue and purple and black wires, I found the blue and purple wires just barely being held into the connector. A slight tug was all it took to get them to fall out. I've got the broken sections out of the plastic connector now. Where do I find a loom, or at least the pigtail connector that I can splice into the loom? Thanks.

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