In this Whirlpool icemaker repair guide I will walk you through the steps in
repairing Whirlpool icemakers with the module motor as shown in the picture
below. Note that this icemaker is on many brand refrigerators (most not made by
GE) and the procedure for checking them is the same. I will also discuss the
procedure for diagnosing the ice level control optics for whirlpool
refrigerators with the ice bin mounted on the freezer door. Whirlpool icemaker
repair is easy and with help from this Whirlpool icemaker repair guide you will
repair you icemaker yourself and save expensive repair bills.
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When repairing icemakers it is important to know how much ice the icemaker should produce. Icemakers typically dump once every 1-2 hours An icemaker that dumps once an hour has strong icemaker production and an icemaker that dump once every 2 hours is weak but still acceptable. So in 24 hours, the icemaker should make approximately 80-175 cubes.
Typically it will take 24-48 hours for an icemaker bin to fill and longer if the refrigerator is just starting up. If your icemaker is producing ice but slowly, the first thing to check before going through troubleshooting steps provided on this page is the temperature in the freezer. The temperature should be around 0-10 degrees. Note that if you are taking air temperature, the door of the freezer should be closed for at least 30 minutes before reading temperature.
f you don’t have a thermometer, a good
indication that the temperature in the freezer is acceptable is ice cream. If
the ice cream is hard the temperature is acceptable and if the ice cream is soft
check out this page Refrigerator
Before you proceed in repairing your icemaker, take note of the temperature
inside the refrigerator, it should be between 0-10 degrees in the freezer and
34-40 in the fresh food section because this will greatly affect the performance
of the icemaker. If you have a thermometer to check temperature just make sure
all the food seems to be frozen and everything in the refrigerator seems to be
cold and if you are unsure, buy a thermometer. If you find that the refrigerator
is not cooling properly click
Special note for bottom freezers the icemaker may not respond to the jumper wire test described below unless you close the door or press the door switch.
Icemaker No Ice
This section of the whirlpool icemaker repair guide I will walk you through the steps in a whirlpool icemaker not making ice. First thing you should check is the feeler arm (not on models with the ice bin mounted on the freezer door). The feeler arm is the metal wire that stops the icemaker when the ice-bin gets full. Sometimes this feeler arm will jump out of the hole on the back of the head of the icemaker so that it will lift up and back down when the icemaker cycles. If it is out of the hole, place it back and your problem should be fixed.
Most Whirlpool icemakers have a motor modular mounted on the front of the icemaker with holes marked V, L, H, T, M and N. These are test points to make Whirlpool icemaker repair easy. To access this modular simply remove the cover off the front of the icemaker, note that on some side-by-side refrigerators the icemaker is mounted sideways and you must take the icemaker loose to remove the cover. To check this icemaker you will have to make a jumper wire. Take a six-inch piece of insulted wire and skin about ½ inch on each end. Now before you proceed, look in the ice mold (where the ice forms). Is there any ice in it?
Yes - If there is ice in the mold take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked T and the other end in the hole marked H for about 15 seconds then remove it.
If when you do this the icemaker dumps the ice in the mold and the feeler arm lifts up and then back down, the thermostat inside the icemaker is bad (provided the temperature in the freezer is ok). Note that I recommend changing the entire icemaker if the thermostat is bad. Whirlpool icemakers visit AppliancePartsPros.com.
If when you do this ice still will not dump, the motor modular is bad and needs replacing (part number 8201515). If it dumps but the feeler arm will not lift up and then back down make sure the feel arm hasn’t jumped out of place, it should be inserted in a hole on the back of the icemaker head.
No- If there is no ice in the mold take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked V and the other end in the hole marked L just long enough to see if water enters the icemaker then remove it. This should power up the water valve and water should enter the icemaker.
If when you do this water doesn’t enter the icemaker, look inside the tube that enters the back of the icemaker to bring water to it and see if it is stopped up with ice. If so remove it, clean all the ice out of it and replace the water inlet valve. If its not stopped up with ice, replace the water inlet valve (provided the water supply from your house plumbing is working).
If when you do this water does enter the icemaker take that jumper wire and place one end in the hole marked T and the other in the hole marked H for about 15 seconds. When you do this, the icemaker should go through the cycle, the feeler arm should lift up and the water should enter the icemaker. If all of this happens the thermostat inside the icemaker is bad (provided the temperature inside the freezer is ok). Note that I recommend changing the entire icemaker if the thermostat is bad.
If the icemaker will not go through the cycle the motor modular(part number 8201515) is bad and needs replacing. This part can be found at AppliancePartsPros.com. If it does go through the cycle and run water in and the feeler arm doesn’t lift up and then back down make sure the feel arm hasn’t jumped out of place, it should be inserted in a hole on the back of the icemaker head.
Note that the jumper wire test doesn’t work well with models that the ice-bin is mounted in the door. This is because you have to get everything exactly right for it to work. When I originally wrote about the jumper wire test I didn’t intend on it to be used on refrigerators with the ice-bin mounted on the door but it should work if you follow the instructions below. Also note on these models only try to jump out T to H.
1. Unplug the refrigerator for at least 30 seconds.
2. Insert the jumper from T to H and close the door. Note to be certin that the jumper stays in place or the test will fail.
3. Then after the jumper is in place plug the refrigerator back in and wait 15 seconds or so before opening the freezer door.
Using the jumper wire on the models with the ice-bin mounted in the door is not as effective as with models that have the ice-bin mounted in the freezer compartment such as older side-by-side models and all top freezers. It is mostly used just the make the icemaker cycle to see what it is doing or not doing.
But before you attempt to use any jumper on these models you need to check the optics as described below.
Special note for bottom freezers the icemaker may not respond to the jumper wire test unless you close the door or press the door switch.
Whirlpool Icemaker Repair-Optics Test
In this section of this Whirlpool icemaker repair guide I will walk you though diagnosing the ice level optics on Whirlpool refrigerators with the ice-bin mounted in the door. If you have a whirlpool refrigerator with the ice-bin mounted in the door it will not have the feeler arm, it will have an ice level control optics. The optics is just two sensors, one on each side of the freezer and when ice gets high enough to block the sensors it cuts the icemaker off. This part can be found at AppliancePartsPros.com. This is the test procedure for this Whirlpool icemaker.
1. First, open the freezer and look on the right-hand side and you should see a blinking light.
A. If the light is blinking twice and then off for one second repeatedly something is blocking the optics, which is normal because when you open the door, a flapper springs out to block the optics so that the icemaker will not dump when the door is open. Proceed to step 2.
B. If there is no light the icemaker is either in the harvest mode or the optics are bad and need replacing. To check this, press in on the flapper to unblock the optics. If when you do this the light flashes once every second the icemaker is in the harvest mode and if not the optics are bad.
2. Next press in on the flapper to unblock the optics.
A. If the light blinks once followed by a one second delay, the optics are bad and needs replacing.
B. If the light is on continuously the optics are working properly.
C. If the light is still blinking the same as before you pressed the flap the optics are bad.
If the optics passes the test the problem is the icemaker or the water valve. To check this first, disconnect power from the refrigerator then slide the icemaker out without unplugging it and remove the cover off the front of the icemaker. Then take a six-inch piece of insulted wire and skin about ½ inch on each end. Place one end of the jumper wire in the hole marked H and the other end in the hole marked T. Next close the door to align the optics and reconnect power. Wait 5 seconds then open the door and the icemaker should have started the cycle if not replace the motor module (part number 8201515). If the icemaker completes the cycle and no water enters the icemaker the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
I hope this whirlpool icemaker repair guide helped you in repairing your icemaker.
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